Ameer Pv

നട്ടുച്ചക്ക്  45° ചൂടത്ത് ജബൽ  സൗർ   കയറിയവരുണ്ടോ ?    

മക്കത്തും മദീനയിലും  ജിദ്ദയിലുമൊക്കെ  ജീവിച്ചിട്ടും  കഴിഞ്ഞ  4 വർഷമായി  വിചാരിക്കുന്നു  ഹിറാ  ഗുഹയും  സൗർ  ഗുഹയും  കേറണമെന്ന്. ഇസ്ലാമിക ചരിത്രത്തിലെ ഒരു സുപ്രധാന സംഭവമാണ് ഹിജ്‌റ. ഇസ്ലാമിക കലണ്ടര്‍ ആരംഭിക്കുന്നത് ഹിജ്‌റ അടിസ്ഥാനപ്പെടുത്തിയാണ്. പ്രവാചകന്‍ മുഹമ്മദ് നബി(സ)യും അനുചരന്‍ അബൂബക്കര്‍ (റ)വും മക്കയില്‍നിന്ന് മദീനയിലേക്ക് അല്ലാഹുവിന്റെ കല്‍പന പ്രകാരം ഹിജ്‌റ പുറപ്പെട്ടപ്പോള്‍, തങ്ങളെ തിരഞ്ഞെത്തിയ ശത്രുക്കളുടെ കണ്ണില്‍ പെടാതെ മൂന്നു നാള്‍ ഒളിച്ചു കഴിഞ്ഞ സൗര്‍ ഗുഹ സ്ഥിതി ചെയ്യുന്നത് സൗര്‍ മല എന്നറിയപ്പെടുന്ന ജബല്‍ സൗറിലാണ്. നാട്ടിലാണെങ്കിൽ കൊടികുത്തിമലയും പാലൂർ കോട്ടയും കൊളുക്കുമലയും എടക്കൽ കേവുമൊക്കെ കയറിയ ഒരു ചെറിയ പരിചയമുണ്ട്.   അങ്ങനെ  ഇന്നലെ  സൗദി നാഷണൽ  ഡേ ന്റെ  ലീവ്  വന്നപ്പോഴാണ്  അതിനു  അവസരം  ഒത്തു  കിട്ടിയത്.  വെറുതെ  കരുതിയാൽ    പോരാട്ടോ  കഴിഞ്ഞ   വർഷം  ഏകദേശം  ഇതേ  സമയമാണ്  ഹിറാ  ഗുഹ ഞാനും  എന്റെ  ഈ  പ്രിയ  സുഹൃത്തും  കേറിയത്   അതിന്റെ  ഉയരം  642 m (2,106 ft) ആയിരുന്നെങ്കിൽ   സൗർ  മലയുടെ   ഉയരം  1,405 m (4,610 ft) ആണ്. അന്ന്  ഹിറാ  കയറിയപ്പോളേ ഊപ്പാടം   ഇളകിയതാണ്  എന്നിരുന്നാലും   രണ്ടും കൽപിച്ചു  കയറാൻ  പ്ലാൻ  ഇട്ടു  തലേന്ന്  രാത്രി  കൂട്ടുകാരൻ  ഷബീറിനെ   വിളിച് രാവിലെ ഞാനും  അർഷാദും ഷബീറും  പോവാൻ  തീരുമാനമായി.രാത്രി  ഉംറ  കഴിഞ്  അർഷാദിന്റെ    റൂം  മേറ്റ്  കൊണ്ട്  വന്ന  കോഴിക്കോടൻ ഹൽവയും  കഴിച് ജിദ്ദയിലുള്ള  ഷബീറിന്  മക്കയിലെ  റൂം  ലൊക്കേഷനും  ഷെയർ  ചെയ്ത  3 am നു  കിടന്നു.  ഒന്ന്  ഉറങ്ങി  സുബ്ഹി  നിസ്കരിക്കാൻ   എഴുന്നേറ്റ  ഷബീർ  വിളിക്കുന്നുണ്ടോന്ന്  നോക്കി  ഇല്ല  അവൻ  വരുമ്പോ  വിളിക്കുമല്ലോ  എന്നും  സമദനിച്ച  വീണ്ടും  കിടന്നു  അവൻ  വിളിച്ചുമില്ല  ഞങ്ങൾ  എഴുന്നേറ്റപ്പോൾ  സമയം  11.am.
പിന്നെ  മക്കയിൽ  ജുമുഅക്ക്  എത്താനുള്ള  വെത്രപാടിൽ  പെട്ടെന്ന്  കുളിച്ച  ഫ്രഷ്  ആയി  അർഷാദിന്റെ  റൂം  മേറ്റ്  കൊണ്ട്  വന്ന  സോറി  റൂം  മാറ്റിന്റെ  അമ്മായിമ്മ  നാട്ടിൽ  നിന്നും  കൊടുത്ത  വിട്ട  അവലോസും  പൊടിയും  എള്ള്  പുട്ടും  കഴിച്  പള്ളിയിൽ  പോയി  നിസ്കാരം  കഴിഞ്ഞ് നോക്കുമ്പോ സമയം  നട്ടുച്ച  2 : 00 pm.    45° ചൂടും  40% ഹ്യൂമിഡിറ്റിയും  വക  വെക്കാതെ  നബിയും  (PBUH) chunk കൂട്ടുകാരൻ  സിദീഖ്  (റ ) വും ശത്രുക്കളുടെ  കണ്ണിൽ  പെടാതെ  3ദിവസത്തോളം  ഒളിവിൽ  കഴിഞ്ഞ , സിദീഖ് (റ) വിനെ പാമ്പ് കടിച്ചിട്ടും മല കയറി ക്ഷീണിച് ഉറങ്ങിക്കിടക്കുന്ന  സ്വന്തം കൂട്ടുകാരൻ ഉണരുമോന്ന് ഭയപ്പെട്ട് ശബ്ദമുണ്ടാക്കാതെ വേദന സഹിച്ചു കഴിഞ്ഞ് കൂടിയ തൗർ ഗുഹ   അതാണ് ലക്‌ഷ്യം. 

 നബിയെയും  സിദീഖ്(റ)  യെയും  കണ്ടെത്തുന്നവർക്    അബൂ  ജഹലിന്റെ (അന്നത്തെ മക്കയിലെ ശത്രുക്കളുടെ തലവൻ)  നേതൃത്വത്തിൽ നൂറ് ഒട്ടകം സമ്മാനം പ്രഖ്യാപിക്കപ്പെട്ടു.  100 ഒട്ടകം  ഇനാം  നല്കാമെന്നറിഞ്ഞു   തപ്പി  തിരഞ്ഞ്  എത്തിയ  ശത്രുക്കളുടെ  മുമ്പിൽ  നിന്ന്  ഗുഹ  കവാടത്തിൽ  ചിലന്തി  വല  കെട്ടിയും  പ്രാവ്  മുട്ട  ഇട്ട്  അടയിരുന്നു  ആൾ  താമസമില്ലാതെ  situation create ചെയ്ത്  നബിയെ  സംരക്ഷിച്ച     സൗർ   ഗുഹ. ആ പ്രാക്കളുടെ പിൻ മുറക്കാർ ഇന്നും ഇവിടെ ഉണ്ട്. അതിനെ തീറ്റിപ്പോറ്റി ജീവിതം തള്ളി നീക്കുന്നവരെയും അങ്ങിങ്ങായി കാണാം
മനസ്സിൽ   മഞ്ചേരിയിലുള്ള  കൂട്ടുകാരൻ  ജുനു ചുള്ളകാട്ടിൽ  അതിരാവിലെ  3 മണിക്ക്  ചെമ്പ്ര  കാണാൻ   പോയ തള്ളും ഫോട്ടോസും കണ്ട നമ്മക്ക്  നട്ടുച്ച  2 മണിക്ക്  എന്ത്  കൊണ്ട്  കേറി  കൂടാ  എന്നും  വിചാരിച്ചു സൗർ  ഗുഹ   കാണാനുള്ള   അതിയായ  ആഗ്രഹത്തോടെ മക്കയിലെ നബി(സ) ആടിനെ മേച്ചു നടന്ന ആജ്യാദിൽ നിന്നും 15 റിയാലിന് ടാസ്‌കി പിടിച്ചു ജബൽ തൗറിന്റെ അടുത്ത് ഇറങ്ങി  മല കയറ്റം  ആരംഭിച്ചു .കേറി  തുടങ്ങി  ആദ്യ  സ്റ്റെപ്  മുതലേ  ഞാൻ   ക്ഷീണിച്ചിരുന്നു , ഉരുളൻ  കല്ലിൽ  തട്ടി  തടഞ്ഞും   തപ്പി  പിടിച്ചും  മെല്ലെ  മെല്ലെ  കിടച്ച  കേറി  കൊണ്ടിരുന്നു    വായിൽ  നിന്നും  നുരയും  പാതയുമൊക്കെ  വരൻ  തുടങ്ങി  ഹൃദയം  ബാൻഡ്  മുട്ടുന്നപോലെ  പുറത്തേക്  കേൾക്കാത്ത  വിധം  സ്പന്ദനം  ഉണ്ടാക്കിയും   ഓരോ  10 minute കയറിയാൽ  2 മിനിറ്റ്  റസ്റ്റ്  എന്ന  തോതിൽ  കയറി  തുടങ്ങി  നാട്ടിലെ  കൊളുക്കുമല  കയറുന്ന  പോലെയോ  അല്ലെങ്കിൽ  ചെമ്പ്ര   കയറുന്ന  പോലെയോ  അല്ല  ഒരു  പുൽ കൊടി   പോലുമില്ലാത്ത  മൊട്ട  കല്ലുകൾ  നിറഞ്ഞ  മക്കയിലെ  ജബൽ    തൗർ  ആണ്  കേറികൊണ്ടിരിക്കുന്നത് .
കുറച്  പോയപ്പോ  ആണ്  രാവിലെ   ജുമുഅക്ക്  മുൻപ്  കേറി ജുമുഅക്ക്  താഴെ  ഇറങ്ങാമെന്നും  പ്ലാൻ  ഇട്ട്  കയറിയ  2 പച്ചകളെ (ഞങ്ങൾ  പ്രവാസി  മലയാളികൾ  സ്നേഹത്തോടെ  പാകിസ്താനികളെ  വിളിക്കുന്ന  പേര് ) കണ്ടത്  ഞാൻ  അറിയാവുന്ന  ഉർദുവിൽ  ചോദിച്ചു  ഊപ്പർ ജാനേ കേലിയെ കിത്ന  ടൈം  ചാഹിയെ  ന്ന്    കേട്ട  പാതി  പച്ച  പറയാ  ദോ  ഗണ്ടാന്ന്. ഞാനും  അർഷാദും  അവനേം  കളിയാക്കി  ഈ  മല  കയറാൻ  2 മണിക്കൂറോ ഇതൊക്കെ ചെറുത് ഇപ്പൊ ശരി ആക്കി തരാം  നമ്മക്  1 മണിക്കൂറും  വേണ്ടി  വരില്ലാനൊക്കെ  പറഞ്ഞു  കേറി  തുടങ്ങി. ആദ്യമൊക്കെ  10 മിനിറ്റ്  നടത്തവും  2 മിനിറ്റ്  റെസ്റ്റുമാണെങ്കിൽ  ഇപ്പൊ  കഥ  മാറി  2 മിനിറ്റ്  നടത്തവും  10 മിനിറ്റ്  റെസ്റ്റും  എന്ന  നിലയിലേക്കു  എത്തി  ചേർന്നു. ഏതെങ്കിലും  പാറയുടെ  അരിക്  പാട്ടി  വെയില്  കൊല്ലാതെ  ഇരിക്കുമ്പോഴുള്ള  ആ  സുഖമുണ്ടല്ലോ  അത്  എത്ര  മഴ  കൊണ്ടാലും  കിട്ടില്ല.ഇട വഴിയിൽ  പച്ചകൾ  ഉണ്ടാക്കി  വെച്ച   ഒന്ന്  രണ്ട് ചെറിയ  ഷെഡ്കൾ  ഉണ്ട്  മുകളിൽ  തകരം  വെച്ച്  അതിനു  മുകളിൽ  വലിയ  കല്ലുകൾ  കെട്ടി  വെച്  വെയിലിൽ  നിന്ന്  താൽക്കാലികം  ഒരു  ആശ്വാസത്തിന്  ഉണ്ടാക്കിയ  നാടൻ  ഭാഷയിൽ  പറഞ്ഞാ  ഒരു ചായിപ്പ്. 

ചിലതിലൊക്കെ  രണ്ടും  മൂന്നും  ഫ്രിഡ്‌ജും   ഒക്കെ  ആയി  ചെറിയ  കച്ചവടം  താഴെ  ഉള്ള  സാധനകൾക്കൊക്കെ ഡബിൾ  റേറ്റ്  .ആ  വലിയ  ഫ്രിഡ്ജ്  കണ്ടപ്പോ  ശരിക്കും  പച്ചകളെ  നമിച്ചു  പോയി  ഇത്രേം  ഉയരത്തിൽ  രണ്ടു കാലും  ഒരു  കയ്യും  കുത്തി  മാത്രം  നടക്കാൻ  കഴിയുന്ന  സ്ഥലത്തു  അവൻ  മാര്  ഫ്രഡ്‌ജും  ഏറ്റി   കൊണ്ട്  വന്ന് വെച്ചിരിക്കുന്നു  പച്ചകൾക്  തുല്യം  പച്ചകൾ  മാത്രം . വീണ്ടും  നടന്നപ്പോളാണ്  ഒരു  കഴുതയാണോ  കുതിരയാണോന്ന്  പെട്ടെന്ന്  മനസ്സിലായില്ല  മുന്നിലോട്  എടുത്ത്  ചാടിക്കയത്.  പെട്ടെന്നു  പേടിച്ചു  പോയി  ഒരു  പാറയുടെ  അരിക്  പറ്റി ഒളിച്ചിരുന്നപ്പോൾ   അതിനു  പിന്നിലായി  2-3 കഴുതകൾ  കൂടി  ഇറങ്ങി  വന്നു  ശേഷം  ഒരു  പച്ചയും  ഇദ്ദേഹത്തിന്റെ  മുകളിലെ  കടകളിയ്ക്കുള്ള   ലോഡിങ്  ആൻഡ്  അൺ  ലോഡിങ്  വെഹിക്കിൾ  ആ  ഈ   ഡോങ്കീസ്  അതിനെയും  തച്ചു  മൂപ്പർ  ഇറങ്ങി  പോയി .
അങ്ങനെ  കിതച്ചും  റസ്റ്റ്  എടുത്തും  ഞങ്ങൾ   ജബൽ  തൗർ  കേറി  കൊണ്ടിരിക്കയാണ്  വീണ്ടും  ഒന്ന്  രണ്ട്  പേര്   എതിരെ  വരുന്നു  പച്ചകൾ  തന്നെ  കിത്ന  ദൂര്   ബാക്കി  ഹെ എന്ന്  ചോദിച്ചപ്പോ  അവന്മാര്  പറയാ  25%  ഹോഗയാ  എന്ന്.പിന്നെ  നമ്മൾ  ഇവിടെ   എത്തീലെ  ഇനി  പകുതിയൊന്നുമില്ല,  കയറാൻ  തുടങ്ങിയത്  ഒരു  മണിക്കൂർ  ആയി . നോക്കുമ്പോൾ  തൊട്ട  അടുത്ത്  കാണുന്ന മല  കേറിയൽ  അല്ലെ  അറിയൂ,  കയറുന്തോറും  ഇത്  വളര്ന്നുണ്ടോന്ന്  ന്നൊരു  ഡൌട്ട് .

 കിതച്ചും  ഇരുന്നും  നടന്നും  നിറങ്ങിയുമൊക്കെ  ആയി  അവസാനം  ഞങൾ    തൗർ  ഗുഹയുടെ  അടുത്ത്  എത്താനായി.പ്രവാചകന്‍ മുഹമ്മദ് നബി (സ)യും അബൂബക്കര്‍ (റ)യും ഇവിടെ ഒളിച്ചു താമസിച്ച ദിവസങ്ങളില്‍ അവര്‍ക്ക് ഭക്ഷണവുമായി എത്തിയത് അബൂബക്കര്‍ (റ)യുടെ മകള്‍ അസ്മാഅ് ബിന്‍ത് അബൂബക്കര്‍ (റ). അന്ന് അവര്‍ ഏഴു മാസം ഗര്‍ഭിണി. ആ നിറവയറും ചുമന്ന് പ്രത്യേകിച്ച് വഴികളൊന്നുമില്ലാതിരുന്ന ആ കാലത്ത് ഈ കുന്ന് കയറിയിറങ്ങിയത്  അത്യദ്ഭുതം തന്നെ. ഇന്ന് നല്ല ആരോഗ്യമുള്ള ഒരാള്‍ പോലും ഇതിന്റെ മുകളിലെത്തുമ്പോള്‍ തളര്‍ന്നുപോകുന്ന അവസ്ഥ. ദൂരെ  വിദൂരതയിൽ  മക്കയിലെ  ലോകത്തിലെ തന്നെ ഏറ്റവും  ഉയരമുള്ള  ക്ലോക്ക്  ടവർ  തല ഉയർത്തി   നില്കുന്നത് കാണാം.   താഴെ  10 ഉം  20 ഉം  നിലകളുള്ള  വലിയ  ഫ്ലാറ്റുകൾ  പൊട്ട്  പോലെ  കാണുന്നുണ്ട് .

ഗുഹയുടെ  അടുത്  എത്തിയപ്പോൾ  കൃത്യം  4.30  .  രണ്ട്  മണിക്കൂർ  കൃത്യം  പച്ചകളെ  വെറുതെ  കുറ്റം   പറഞ്ഞു .ഗുഹയുടെ മുന്നിലെ ഷെഡിൽ ഒരു കടയുണ്ട്. ഇവിടെയും നിരവധി വസ്തുക്കള്‍ വില്‍പനക്കുണ്ട്. തണുത്ത വെള്ളം ഇവിടെ ലഭിക്കും. ഇവിടെ വൈദ്യുതി ഇല്ലാത്തതിനാല്‍ രാവിലെ കച്ചവടക്കാര്‍ വരുമ്പോള്‍ ഐസ് ക്യൂബുകള്‍ കൊണ്ടുവന്നാണ് വെള്ളവും മറ്റും തണുപ്പിച്ച് വില്‍ക്കുന്നത്. താഴെ ഒരു റിയാലിന് കിട്ടുന്ന സാധനത്തിന് മുകളിലെത്തുമ്പോള്‍ രണ്ടും മൂന്നും റിയാല്‍ നല്‍കണം

5-8 പേരുണ്ട്  വലിയ  തിരക്കില്ലാത്തത്കൊണ്ട്  ആദ്യം  കുറച്ചു   ഫോട്ടോസും  പിന്നെ   ഗുഹയിൽ  കേറി   രണ്ട് റക്അത്  നിസ്കരിച്ചു   നബിയുടെ  കൂട്ടുകാരനെ  പാമ്പ്  കടിച്ച  പൊത്തു  അന്വേഷിച്ച്  തിരക്കിലായി  അവസാനം  ഒന്നിലധികം  പൊത്തുകളുള്ള  ഗുഹക്കകത്ത്  നിന്ന്  ഇറങ്ങിയപ്പോ  ചെറുതായി  പൊടിക്കാറ്റ്   വീശാൻ   തുടങ്ങി  പിന്നാലെ  ഇടിയും  മിന്നലും 

.
വേഗം  അസർ  നിസ്കരിക്കാൻ  ആരംഭിച്ചു  നിസ്കാരം  തുടങ്ങിയതും  കാറ്റിന്റെ  വേഗത  കൂടി  ഇടിയും മിന്നലും  ശക്തമായി  മറ്റൊരു ഷെഡിലായിരുന്നു    നിസ്കരിച്ചത്  ഷെഡിന്റെ മുകളിൽ വെച്ചിട്ടുള്ള  കല്ല് തലയിൽ  വീണു  മരിക്കുമോന്ന് പോലും  ഭയപ്പെട്ടു  നിസ്കാരത്തിൽ  ഓടാനും  പറ്റില്ല . അവസാനം  നിസ്കരിച്ചു  വേഗം  ഗുഹയുടെ  അടുത്  അഭയം  തേടി. ശക്തമായ   കാറ്റും  മഴയും  പാറിപോകുമോന്നോക്കെ  ഒരു  തോന്നൽ  4610 feet ഉയരത്തിലാണെ. തടയാൻ ഈ പാറയല്ലാതെ മറ്റൊന്നുമില്ല.ഷെഡിന്റെ മുകളിലുള്ള  ഷീറ്റുകളോക്കോ   ഇളകി  പാറാൻ തുടങ്ങി  ഉള്ള  ധൈര്യം  സംഭരിച്ചു  പേടി  ഉള്ളവരോടൊക്കെ  എന്റെ  ചുറ്റും  ഇരിക്കാൻ  പറഞ്ഞു  ആ  കടയിൽ   ആരോ  മറന്ന്  വെച്ച്  പോയ   കുടയും  പിടിച്ചു  മഴ  നനയാതെ  ഒരു  20 minute ഇരുന്നു.

മഴക്ക്  അല്പം  ശമനം  ഉണ്ട്  എന്ന്  തോന്നിയപ്പോൾ  മലയുടെ  ഏറ്റവും  പീക്കിൽ  കയറി  നമ്മുടെ  സ്ഥിരം   ടൈറ്റാനിക്  പോസ്  ഒക്കെ  എടുത്ത്  നില്പായി.

 പെട്ടെന്നു  കാറ്റടിച്ചു  കണ്ണട  പാറിപ്പോയി  പിടുത്തം  കിട്ടിയതിനാൽ  രക്ഷപ്പെട്ടു  റിസ്ക്  എടുക്കാതെ  എത്രയും  പെട്ടെന്ന്  ഇറങ്ങാനുള്ള  പുറപ്പാടിലാണ്. കേറിയപ്പോ  നട്ടുച്ച  വെയിൽ  ഇപ്പൊ  ഭയങ്കര  തണുപ്പോടു കൂടിയ  കാറ്റ്.

ഇനിയാണ്  ട്വിസ്റ്റ്  പാറയിൽ  കേറി   അർഷാദ്  വെറുതെ  ഒന്ന്  കൈ  വീശിയതാ  ഒരു  റ്റർ  റ്റർ  എന്നൊരു  ഡിസ്ഗ്സ്റ്റിംഗ് സൗണ്ട് . ആദ്യം   സൗണ്ട്  കേട്ട്  കുറെ  ചിരിച്ചു  നമ്മൾ  കരുതി  കയ്യിലെ  മോതിരത്തിൽ  നിന്നാണെന്ന്  പിന്നെ  ഞാനും   ഒന്ന്  ടെസ്റ്റ്  ചെയ്തു  എനിയ്ക്കും   ഫീൽ   ആയി  അതെ  സൗണ്ട്  കൈ  വെറുതെ  എടുത്ത്  വീശിയാൽ  ഒരു  പ്രത്യക  സൗണ്ട്  ഒരു  വിറയലും  എന്തോ  ഒരു  എര്ത്  അടിച്ച   പോലെ  ഒരു  പവർ   എന്ന  പിന്നെ  ഒരു  ലൈവ്  വീഡിയോ  എടുക്കാമെന്നൊക്കെ  പറഞ്ഞു   ഒരു  ടെസ്റ്റ്   വീഡിയോ  എടുത്ത് താ   വീഡിയോ  എടുത്തോണ്ടിരിക്കുമ്പോ  അവന്റെ   ഐഫോൺ  ചത്തുപോയി .

 എന്താ  പറ്റിയത്  മനസ്സിലായില്ല .ഇടി മിന്നലിന്റെ  കൂടെ  ഏതെങ്കിലും  പവർ  ഇറങ്ങി  വരുമോ  ?? വീണ്ടും  അവിടെ  കൂടുതൽ   നിന്നാൽ  ആപത്താണ്  എന്ന്  മനസിലാക്കി       വേഗം  മല  ഇറക്കം  ആരംഭിച്ചു   കൃത്യം  1 മണിക്കൂർ  കൊണ്ട്  ഇറങ്ങാൻ  കഴിഞ്ഞു .

താഴേക്കു  നോക്കുമ്പോൾ  മഴയൊക്കെ  പെയ്ത  ചുറ്റുപാടും  വളരെ  ക്ലിയർ  ആയ  പോലെ . 10 km അകലെ  ഉള്ള   ക്ലോക്ക്  ടവർ  വളരെ  വ്യക്തമായി  കാണുന്നുണ്ടായിരുന്നു . മേഘത്തിനിടയിലൂടെ  ഒളി  കണ്ണിട്ട്  സൂര്യൻ  മരുഭൂയിലേക്  ആണ്ട്  പോവുന്നതും  കാണാൻ  നല്ല  രസമായിരുന്നു .

Ameer PV

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